Japan – In the land of cleanliness, technology, and sushi, a journey through tradition and progress 2025/2026

19/12/2025

Foreword:

Japan is a multifaceted country with a rich blend of tradition and modernity. The country consists of four main islands – Honshu, Hokkaido, Kyushu, and Shikoku – as well as thousands of smaller islands. I will be traveling for just under three weeks on one main island and one smaller island, on my own and using public transportation.

I want to follow in the footsteps of green tea, sushi, and the history of the samurai. At the same time, I want to get close to nature: I want to get up close and personal with the snow monkeys in Nagano and dive with the large schools of hammerhead sharks off the coast of Yonaguni, which is geographically closer to Taiwan than to the main islands of Japan.

Join me on this journey as I travel to the other side of the world, perhaps even getting a little closer to the secret of long life.

Arrival

At 4:15 in the morning, my alarm went off. I got ready and walked to the bus stop. From there, I took the bus to the train station and changed to the S-Bahn. Surprisingly, there was quite a lot going on at that time of day. I hadn't expected that, but everything went smoothly.

At the airport, I checked in my suitcase and went to the lounge. There, I had a hearty breakfast and called my parents.

We took off with a slight delay and landed just half an hour later in Frankfurt. There, I had to walk about 20 minutes to my gate. Luckily, the business lounge was directly opposite, so I could wait there comfortably until boarding started.

For the first time, I flew with the Japanese airline ANA. I had a window seat and no seatmate next to me.

The food already prepared me for my three-week stay in Japan. It took some getting used to, but it was okay. It filled me up. I watched two movies and then slept for a while. Before landing, there was a small breakfast.

As we flew over Japan, the sun rose, and we landed ahead of schedule in Tokyo. Since I had filled out Visit Japan Online in advance, passport control was quick and easy.

After collecting my suitcase, I headed for the exit. There, I bought a ticket at a counter for the shuttle bus to the city center. I paid ¥1,400, which is about €7.68.

Since I still had some time before the bus arrived, I also got a transit card (Suica), which I could add to my iPhone, and loaded about ¥5,000 (€27.43) onto it. With this, I can buy tickets or food.

After that, I went to the bus stop. I was greeted warmly, and everything was very orderly. People lined up neatly, the luggage was taken, you were given a number, and then you boarded.

There was Wi-Fi on the bus, and after about 40 minutes we arrived at Shinjuku Station. There, I activated my eSIM and navigated my way to the hotel, which was only about five minutes away. At check-in, I was told that the rooms were only available from 3:00 p.m. However, when I asked, I was able to get a room from 11:00 a.m. for a small additional fee, so I only had to wait half an hour.

I moved into the room and was quite amazed. There was a heated toilet. Otherwise, the bathroom is quite small, but the room itself is fine for one person. I took a short nap, as it was gray outside and raining.

Before I wanted to head to the Shibuya Crossing, I had planned to note down my receipts on my Mac. But it just wouldn't turn on. I stayed calm, googled, tried a few things, but without success. I searched for the nearest Apple Store, which fortunately was only a fifteen-minute walk away. I packed my cameras, lenses, and the MacBook, and made my way there. Even though they didn't have time to help me immediately, they gave me an appointment for early evening.

I had already bought the ticket for the "Shibuya Sky" observation deck in advance, just like many other things. I decided to grab some lunch beforehand. But that's not so easy here. Since I was in a hurry, I took the next Italian place around the corner. After I ate, I headed down into Tokyo's underground and searched for my metro in the whole maze. Since I didn't fully understand the system yet, with all the different providers, lines, etc., I politely asked for help. The people didn't speak any English, so I went to the information desk. They helped me out, and I found JR Line number 1. Even here, everyone stood in a neat line. Getting on and off the train went smoothly without any pushing. One station later, I got off and looked for the entrance to Shibuya Sky.

I went up with a few others, and when I arrived at the top, I was a bit disappointed. Everything was covered in glass, there were masses of people, and there wasn't a good view of the famous crossing. But you could clearly see that Tokyo is really, really big and was considered the largest city in the world until last year. Now, Jakarta has taken that title. The weather didn't want to cooperate either, which was a shame.

But those who know me know that I'm patient because I was hoping for a sunset, the blue hour, and nightfall. But despite a lens hood, it didn't get any better, so about an hour after the official sunset, I decided to head back down.

However, before I went back, I made sure to walk across the crazy crossing myself. Just go with the flow of people, I thought, and that's exactly what happened.

I was glad when I got back to Shinjuku. You can't imagine the masses of people underground. It's worse than Oktoberfest or New York. But it works, thanks to structure and rules.

The Apple Store was also able to help me, and so I made my way back to the hotel.

Tomorrow, it's early again because the next event is coming up, for which I had also bought a ticket in advance.

Let me know if you need any adjustments or help with anything else!

Day 1 Museum, street life and views

I had breakfast in my room. The night before, I had bought some muesli, as Japanese breakfasts aren't really my thing and are simply too expensive in hotels. Fortified and with my rucksack packed, I went back underground, found the right line and travelled to the Toyosu district (Koto Ward), a modern neighbourhood known for its harbour atmosphere. There is a special museum there called Teamlabs Plans. I had read and been told that visitors should be prepared for water crossings and mirrored floors. Also, the same rule applies here: buy tickets online in advance. Of course, I was early again, so I grabbed a cappuccino to go from a café and strolled along the harbour promenade.

Back at the museum, I was amazed. Within 20 minutes, a huge queue had formed. I joined it. But the Japanese are very well organised and it moved quickly. At the entrance, there were a few explanations, including that there were different themed areas – garden, water, forest and open air – each consisting of large art installations. Then we were off. First, I visited the water area. To do this, we had to take off our shoes, stow everything in free lockers and roll up our trousers. We each went through a few stations, and in some places the water was up to my knees. But what I saw in the different rooms impressed me greatly, so I went a little wild with my camera. Afterwards, I entered the garden theme area. There was a room with only orchids. They hung from the ceilings and there were mirrors everywhere, which made it seem even more intense. Finally, we went to the forest area. Here, everything was very digital and colourful. There were also some attractions that you could try out for yourself.

After more than two and a half hours, I left the museum and drove to the Statue of Liberty. Yes, you read that correctly. There is a Statue of Liberty in Tokyo, located in Odaiba. Due to its placement near Rainbow Bridge, it appears at first glance to be a faithful replica, but in fact it is only about one-seventh the size of its famous counterpart in New York.

The statue was initially erected in 1998 as a temporary tribute to Japan's relations with France. However, its great popularity led to the decision in 2000 to leave it in place permanently.

After taking a few photos here, I continued on until I arrived at the Tsukiji Outer Market. It is a lively labyrinth of alleys lined with food stalls, restaurants, and shops selling food and kitchen utensils. Naturally, I grabbed my camera and captured the street life. I lost track of time and was completely in my element.

After taking a few photos, I walked towards Ginza, Tokyo's most famous and elegant district in the Chūō ward.

Suddenly, I found myself standing in front of another huge intersection. I found a building where I could take photos from above without any glass panes in the way. Of course, I lost track of time again, but I managed to get a few good snapshots.

However, time was pressing, so I looked for the nearest public transport stop and travelled to Skytree, a 634-metre-high television and observation tower, the tallest in the world. It opened in 2012 and, in addition to its telecommunications and meteorological functions, it is also a major tourist attraction, with two observation decks (Tembo Deck and Tembo Galleria) offering breathtaking 360-degree panoramic views of the city. Here, too, I had bought my ticket in advance, with the plan of taking beautiful pictures during the day, in the evening and at night. However, the windows were again a problem here, and the barrier was even further away. So I couldn't use my rubber lens hood. Nevertheless, I got an incredible view of Tokyo. Once again, it became clear to me how big the city actually is.

n the early evening, after it had gotten dark, I drove back to my neighbourhood, Shinjuku, which is located in western Tokyo. It is also known for its skyscrapers, the sea of neon lights in Kabukicho (nightlife/red-light district), huge department stores, restaurants and the enormous Shinjuku Gyoen Park. Of course, I passed by the famous Godzilla head and the 3D cat. It makes you realise once again that you are in Japan and Asia. Everything is different here.

Before heading back to the hotel, I made a detour to Shinjuku Golden Gai, a historic, narrow network of six small alleys (east of Kabukichō) known for its tiny, unique bars, which often only seat 5-6 guests, retain a nostalgic 1950s flair and offer an intimate insight into Japan's drinking culture. And that's exactly how it was. Here, I was able to take a few shots of the city's nightlife.

Back at the hotel, I decided to skip my trip to Mount Fuji tomorrow, as it is supposed to rain and there is still so much of the big city I haven't seen. So tomorrow I will spend a second day in the city.

Day 2: Across Tokyo

Today, I took it a bit easier because I hadn't booked any tickets with an admission time slot for this day. I set off at a leisurely pace, first heading underground to find the right line. In Tokyo, you can't just walk from A to B. In New York, that was still possible to some extent – but travelling by public transport is much cheaper than in Munich or New York.

My first stop today was the Ueno district, an area of green nature with historic buildings and museums. I headed towards Yanaka-Ginza, a shopping street with a wide range of shops, from long-established stores that have been around since the Tashio period to modern confectionery shops. But I was still too early; unfortunately, nothing happens here before 10 a.m. Even the cafés were still closed, and the famous cat staircase, well, without cats, wasn't really that exciting either.

So I took the train to the next neighbourhood, Akihabara Ochanomizu. There are over 130 second-hand bookshops in the Kanda Jinbocho Street area. Even though I can't read a single book, I set off because I already had certain images in my head that I wanted to capture photographically. Most shops don't allow photography, but it was permitted from outside, and a friendly sales assistant allowed me to photograph his shop after all. There are also book cafés and book hotels in this area. Everything revolves around books there. This part of Tokyo is definitely worth seeing.

But I didn't stay there forever, because there was nothing else to photograph or see there. So I got back on the train and went to the next neighbourhood, called 'Akihabara', which is famous for its anime and manga shops. But I just didn't feel comfortable there, it was too much for me, so I went to 'Ameyoko Market'. This market had food, clothing and game stalls.

But I didn't find that particularly appealing either, so I travelled to the Asakusa district with its famous Asakusa Shrine, also known as Sensoji Temple, and the lively Nakamise shopping street.

Incidentally, it is the oldest temple in Tokyo and Japan. It is a Shinto shrine where three men are worshipped: two brothers and a village chief who were instrumental in the construction of Sensō-ji. It was pandemonium here, but the weather cooperated. Instead of rain, today there was sunshine and an almost cloudless sky.

After lunch, I drove back to the hotel briefly. I had to pack my suitcase, as it was to be picked up by the luggage service at 3 p.m. and taken directly to Nagano. This means that tomorrow morning I can take my trip to Mount Fuji in peace using public transport. However, the bus I wanted to book was already fully booked. It would have been cheaper and more comfortable than taking the train, but that's just one of the things you have to accept when travelling spontaneously.

After I had done that, I drove to the Tokyo International Forum, which is located in Marunouchi. I had seen many great photos of it beforehand and was impressed by the architecture. Unfortunately, however, visitors were not allowed to go up, so I could only take photos from below. The building is intended for cultural events such as concerts, exhibitions and conferences.

From there, I strolled around the neighbourhood, which has many skyscrapers and office buildings. I was hoping for some great architecture.

But that wasn't the case, and as dusk fell, I decided to visit Tokyo Tower, which is reminiscent of the Eiffel Tower in Paris and is located in the Roppongi Akasaka district. When I arrived, it was already glowing orange-red.

But my feet were feeling the strain after so much walking, so I decided to head back to my neighbourhood. I strolled through the famous 'Omoide Yokocho Memory Lane' and then back to the hotel.

That's it for me in Tokyo. Tomorrow, my trip to Japan continues.

Day 3: Trip to Mount Fuji and riding the Shinkansen

My alarm clock rang at five o'clock because I wanted to take a trip to Mount Fuji today. The original plan was to take the bus there directly, but all the tickets were sold out. That's a minor disadvantage when you're travelling spontaneously. There were trains, but they involved changing trains and were a little more expensive.

I packed the rest of my things into my camera bag and set off. By now, I had got the hang of it, quickly found my platform and took the first train to Takao. I was amazed at how busy it was. The train was full. I guess some people were coming back from celebrations, while others were going to or coming back from work. But then I experienced something that is unusual for the Japanese. The train was delayed, so I missed my connecting train.

So I had to wait 20 minutes for the next one. But that didn't matter, because with Google Maps I'm always up to date and can see where and which train I need to take. So that I could use the internet without expensive roaming charges, I bought an eSIM via Airalo.

The next train arrived on time and I continued on to Ōtsuki. During the journey, I chatted with a Japanese man who was on his way to go hiking using Google Translate. He didn't speak English. The journey flew by.

In Ōtsuki, a friendly conductor helped me and showed me the way to the Fujikyuko Line. I didn't have to buy tickets because I paid for everything with my Suica card.

After a total journey time of two and three-quarter hours, I arrived at Shimoyoshida Station. From there, I walked uphill for just under a kilometre until I reached the Chureito Pagoda after climbing many steps. From there, I had a great view of Mount Fuji. The conditions were almost perfect. The only drawback was that the sun was already quite high in the sky, causing harsh light. Nevertheless, I managed to take a few photos. Afterwards, I enjoyed the view for a while before heading back to the village.

I looked around a bit. There wasn't much to photograph, so I decided to relax and have a cappuccino at the station, with a view of Mount Fuji. When else would you get that?

Meanwhile, I considered whether to continue driving to look for more spots, but decided against it and tried to book a bus ticket for the return journey. Unfortunately, the website was still in Japanese, but the ladies at the café were very friendly and helpful.

So I managed to get a ticket after all and marched to the station. There I met two Americans who had flown to Japan for just three days with nothing but their mobile phones and passports. Apparently, they do this quite often. Back in Tokyo, I went to Tokyo Station. I looked for the ticket office and spontaneously bought a ticket for the Shinkansen to Nagano. It worked perfectly, without a seat reservation, but the departure was already in 10 minutes. On the platform, I asked the conductor which queue I had to join, and he showed me. When the doors opened, everything went smoothly and orderly. And I got a window seat in the non-reserved area. Just under an hour and a half later, I arrived in Nagano.

I was greeted warmly at the hotel, my suitcase had already arrived, and so I moved into my room on the 11th floor with a view of Nagano.

Before strolling through the streets, I looked for the bus stop and ticket office for the monkey park so that I could buy everything in advance and set off without any stress tomorrow. The Sweet Monkey Pass, which includes a return trip on the express bus and admission, costs 6,800 yen. Prices are simply higher in winter because there is also a large ski resort here. Once that was done, I took a look around Nagano. I don't find it particularly beautiful here.

However, I quickly noticed that it was quieter than Tokyo. Now I'm hoping and counting on the weather for tomorrow! It would be perfect if it snowed here in the Japanese Alps.

Day 4 Christmas Eve – The monkeys are on the loose

Yesterday, I was told that I should be at the bus stop at least half an hour before departure, otherwise I would miss the first bus. Departure was at 8:50 a.m. I was already there at eight o'clock, as I didn't want to take any chances, because today was my only chance to see the snow monkeys. And it was a good thing I did. Just fifteen minutes later, the queue was already very long. The bus arrived on time.

After 45 minutes, we reached the bus stop for Snow Monkey Park. From there, you have to climb almost two kilometres up into the mountains to reach the hot springs. The path was a bit steep at first. If there is black ice or snow, you should be especially careful here and wear good footwear. The rest of the path was just muddy because it kept raining. I had prepared myself for snow, but oh well. In the past, snow was guaranteed in December. Unfortunately, that is no longer the case today. Climate change is also noticeable here.

The entrance was just before the hot springs. You can still buy tickets there if you go on your own, but if you already have a ticket, you can join a second queue and go straight through.

And there they were: monkeys everywhere. They came from all sides and you could already see the steam from the springs. There was also a little snow. Unfortunately, there were already quite a few people at the hot springs. But I was lucky and managed to find a good spot to take photos. It was impressive how the monkeys ignored us humans and paid no attention to us at all. They quarrelled, made love, chilled out and bathed in the water. The onset of rain gave me a different kind of photo opportunity, and the steam from the warm water added that special something. So I got some interesting photos, even without snow. Luckily, I had my rain cape with me and put it on so I didn't get completely soaked.

But after three hours, it became too much for me too, and I was soaked through, so I headed back. I looked like a muddy sparrow, my thermal trousers, rain cape and shoes were filthy. I cleaned everything as best I could with snow, then got on the bus and travelled back to Nagano.

I picked up my suitcase from the hotel and spontaneously bought another train ticket to Kanazawa.

Once again, I travelled without a reservation. Everything went smoothly, and after a little over an hour, I arrived at Kanazawa Station. I used Google Maps to find a route to the hotel. I had actually planned to walk, but as it was raining, I took a bus that stopped right there two stops further on. Here, you don't pay before boarding, but when you get off, to the bus driver. I was amazed because my journey only cost 1.00 yen, which is €0.01.

I was greeted warmly at the hotel, check-in went smoothly and I was given a room on the top floor. I have to say that so far, all the single rooms have been perfectly fine. I had read repeatedly beforehand that the rooms were very cramped and small, but I can't confirm that.

I spent Christmas Eve quietly in the hotel restaurant and went to bed early, as another excursion was planned for the next day.

Merry Christmas

Day 5: A picturesque village in Japan

I had already bought my bus tickets online in Germany for the trip to the mountain village of Shirakawa-go. I found the bus stop at Kanazawa Station relatively quickly, as a hotel employee was able to give me clear directions.

The bus departed on time. However, we were then stuck in traffic for almost an hour. The bus driver decided to take a different route, which meant that we arrived in picturesque Shirakawa-go with a considerable delay, but finally arrived nonetheless. Unfortunately, it was already quite busy, which I found unfortunate as I had specifically booked an early bus.

Shirakawa-go is an internationally renowned historic village in the mountains of Japan's Gifu Prefecture. It is characterised by its distinctive gassho-zukuri houses with steep thatched roofs, which resemble praying hands and are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The architecture and rural surroundings make the place particularly charming.

It was pouring with rain, and it was foggy and cold. I first climbed up to the viewpoint to capture the beautiful village with its traditional houses and roofs in a slightly foggy atmosphere. From up there, you had a beautiful view. Here, too, I had hoped for snow, but no such luck. However, the rainy and foggy weather also had something special about it.

Afterwards, I went down and strolled through the small village. Traditional cottages could be seen everywhere. Some of them housed cafés, restaurants, souvenir shops or museums.

Finally, I visited the Wada House Museum, a gassho-zukuri farmhouse that is over 150 years old. It once belonged to a wealthy village head family who traded in gunpowder. Today, it is a museum that offers insights into life under a thatched roof and in the adjoining garden. At 400 yen, the admission fee was not overpriced.

I actually wanted to visit the museum about the history of silk, but it and others were closed. Before taking the bus back at around 2 p.m., I sat down in a café to warm up.

The return journey went according to plan.

Back at the hotel, I changed from my wet clothes into dry ones and set off. I wanted to do some shopping and take some photos. But there wasn't much to see. So I decided to walk to the Higashi Chaya District. There I entered a small shop. The two owners were very friendly and allowed me to take photos of them at work, sewing and cooking.

Afterwards, they gave me some tips for nice photo locations. But it was very dark and there was hardly anything to photograph in that neighbourhood. I think I'll take another look around tomorrow when it's light.

When I wanted to take the bus back, I saw that I would have to wait a long time and decided to walk back.

Day 6 Kanazawa sinks into snow

There it was, the snow I had hoped for at the snow monkeys and in the Alpine village, which had arrived late. And it came down heavily. Within half an hour, everything was white and you could hardly see anything.

Before I set off on a city tour, I printed out the translation of my driving licence, which you need in Japan to hire a car, at 7-Eleven. I had applied for it online (but you can only do this if you are in Japan). The equivalent cost is €21. If you have it issued in Germany, you sometimes pay three times as much. So if you don't need it on the day of arrival, I recommend doing it online in Japan. However, it takes 24 hours to receive confirmation.

Once that was done, I first went to Omicho Market, but I was actually too early. Some of the stalls were still closed or just being set up. The fresh produce from the sea and the fresh fruit had just been delivered. Most of the stall owners were wearing masks (which isn't exactly ideal for photos), but I was able to take a few shots.

Afterwards, I walked to Kanazawa Castle. However, I couldn't see much because of the heavy snow shower. There was hardly anyone around. Sometimes I get the feeling that Japanese cities only wake up at 10 a.m. Admission is not possible before 9 or 10 a.m. either.

I had to pay an entrance fee of around €1.50 for Kenroku-en Garden. It was beautifully laid out, but there wasn't much to photograph in the snow shower, so I took the bus back to the Higashi Chaya district.

Travelling by bus is really cheap here, and you don't have to wait long for one. I walked through the alleys again, but it was like last night: many shops and restaurants were closed. However, one small café was already open. I went in, drank some Japanese tea and warmed up a little.

Then I drove to the Nagamachi Samurai District. There you could see how they used to live. Some things are still the same today. Everything was decorated with straw. I also went to the Kanazawa City Ashigaru Museum, which is free of charge. It vividly depicts the life of the samurai's foot soldiers. Two buildings on the grounds have been restored and are open to visitors. At the Maeda Tosankami-Shiryokan Museum, which costs 310 yen to enter, you can learn about the history of Kanazawa. But there were no samurai swords there. So I went to the Ninja Weapon Museum. It was relatively expensive at 800 yen, but I got my money's worth here. Samurai swords, armour, other weapons and tools. It was very impressive.

By then I was completely soaked, so I changed my clothes at the hotel, picked up my luggage and headed to the station. With the help of a friendly Japanese man, I bought a ticket from the machine, as the ticket counter was crowded and my Shinkansen to Kyoto was due to leave in half an hour. It worked, but I could only book a ticket with a seat reservation. It didn't make much difference, though.

In Tsuruga, I had to change from the Shinkansen to the JR train. That went smoothly, but the JR train to Kyoto was delayed due to heavy snowfall. The sun was shining there, but the temperatures were still low. I took the city bus to the hotel. In Japan, by the way, you get on at the back and pay when you get off. It was only a few steps from the bus stop to the Starhotel. As in Nagano, check-in at this hotel is done via an automatic terminal. It then spits out your card or slip of paper with the code for your room. The Japanese are very well equipped when it comes to technology. Then a hotel employee came and showed me everything you can take with you for free: pyjamas, extra pillows, razors, tea, etc. He also explained when and how the onsen can be used and that there is a welcome bar where all drinks are free.

As I hadn't eaten anything during the day, I just dropped off my luggage and set off. While looking for a restaurant, I came across the Nishiki Tenmangu Shrine just around the corner, which is located right in the Nishiki Market.

After briefly looking at it, I walked to Pontocho Alley, which is only a few minutes away on foot. This historic, narrow street in Kyoto runs alongside the Kamo River and is known for its cosy restaurants, old wooden buildings and proximity to the geisha district. I walked up and down it once and found a very small Japanese restaurant that also offers vegetarian dishes.

I went up the stairs, pushed aside a wooden sliding door and found myself in a tiny restaurant. Only the chef, who is also the owner, was there. I was the first guest and chose fried aubergines, courgettes and pumpkin. I could watch the chef preparing my meal and was allowed to take some photos. But I was a little shocked because they were only small starters. It tasted good nonetheless. However, it didn't fill me up, so I treated myself to something sweet on the way home.

7. Golden Temple and traditional Japan

Of course, I wanted to take photos in the best light again, so I set my alarm clock. Right after breakfast, I took the 205 city bus for about half an hour to Kinkaku-ji, also known as the Golden Temple. It is a Buddhist temple in north-western Kyoto. The complex is particularly famous for the Shariden, whose upper floors are completely covered in gold leaf, which is why it is called Kinkaku, or 'Golden Pavilion'. But when I arrived, I realised that it didn't open until 9 o'clock! Great, I thought to myself, getting up early was pointless again. I strolled around the neighbourhood a bit, but apart from a small spider, I found nothing, so I went back to the entrance and waited.

And that turned out to be a smart move, because shortly afterwards, a huge queue formed again, half an hour before admission. An employee came out of a wooden door and said something in Japanese and English, but unfortunately it was difficult to understand. And then he counted down, because the gates didn't open until nine o'clock sharp, and a bell rang.

Admission costs 500 yen. Shortly after passing the ticket office, you can already see the golden temple in its gigantic complex. The light was perfect, so I was able to take a few nice photos before the crowds of people poured in. You cannot visit the temple itself, but there is a small circular path through the complex.

I continued my journey on the Citybus 12 to Nijō Castle, in the middle of the city. By then, the queue was so long that I decided to just take a few photos from outside and then walk towards Nishiki Market, so that I could perhaps take a few snapshots of the alleys and streets. But no luck, there wasn't really anything to see.

When I arrived at the market, I strolled up and down the entire food mile and tried two typical Japanese snacks.

Afterwards, I set off on foot towards the geisha district. This is Gion, a historic district with traditional wooden houses, tea houses (ochayas) and exclusive restaurants. Unfortunately, it was extremely busy and the sun was too high in the sky, so I hardly took any photos and walked straight to the tea ceremony. I got this tip from a friend from Switzerland who is currently travelling the world with her partner and was in Japan in the summer. I booked my ticket in advance.

Dort wärmte ich mich erst einmal etwas aus, da ich zu früh dran war.

Um 14 Uhr ging es dann aber pünktlich los. Zuerst wurden die Haare gesteckt, anschließend suchte man sich ein Kimono aus und bekam diesen traditionell angezogen. Anschließend wurden wir – eine Gruppe aus 12 Personen – in ein japanisches Teehaus gebracht. Dort erzählte man uns zuerst etwas über die Tee-Zeremonie und zeigte uns, wie diese abläuft. Dann waren wir an der Reihe und durften zuerst die kleine Süßspeise probieren, die vor uns lag, bevor wir unseren eigenen Matchatee anrührten und ihn anschließend traditionell tranken.

After the ceremony, we went into the garden and were allowed to take a few photos of ourselves as a little souvenir. After all, when else would we ever get to wear a real kimono again?

After about an hour and a half, the ceremony was over and I went to the hotel, where I warmed up and got everything ready for tomorrow. Because I have a new mission.

As dusk fell, I headed back to the geisha district, because I had really enjoyed it and wanted to take a few shots after dark.

Back at the hotel, I wanted to sort out the check-out for Monday and ask if I could drop off my luggage at 6 a.m., as I still had plans. They remained adamant that it was only possible from 7 a.m. So I had to reschedule again.

Day 8 Last day in Kyoto and trip to Nara

I set off on my morning mission while it was still dark. My goal was to take photographs in peace and quiet, without any people around. So I went to Gion-Shijo Station and took the train to Fushimi Inari-Taisha.

This is a Shinto shrine in the Fushimi district in the south of Kyoto. It is dedicated to the goddess Inari and is considered the main shrine for around a third of all Inari shrines in Japan. This makes it one of the oldest and best-known Shinto shrines in the city. The complex is particularly famous for its long paths lined with thousands of bright orange torii gates, which were erected as donations from individuals, families or companies. These torii corridors lead up a hill, at the top of which – rather unusually for a Shinto shrine – is the inner sanctum, a mirror that is visible to the public. I wasn't really alone. Some others had had the same idea. But it was within reason. Unfortunately, it didn't work out well with the sunrise and playing with light and shadow, as it was still relatively dark. But I was able to take a few shots, and I climbed all the steps up to the viewpoint. Here I enjoyed the view of the valley and Kyoto.

Then I trudged back down all the steps and travelled back to Kyoto. At Kyoto Station, I changed to another line and travelled to Nara, which is about 40 km from Koto. I only had to change trains once, and the journey cost me just ¥760 (€4.12). However, there are also more expensive connections with the JR train or express trains. Once there, I treated myself to a coffee to wake myself up again, as the train journey had made me tired.

Feeling somewhat refreshed, I set off for Nara Park. It is famous for its sika deer, which roam freely, crossing zebra crossings and roads. Drivers are used to this, and there are signs everywhere saying 'Beware of deer'. It was impressive; they were not shy at all, neither of cars nor of people.

According to the city's official website, deer are considered sacred in Japan and are revered as messengers and helpers of the gods. Since 1957, they have also been under special protection as a 'national treasure'. The origin of this reverence lies in a legend according to which a goddess is said to have come to Nara on the back of a sika deer. The impressive Kasuga Taisha Shrine, located in Nara Park and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was built in her honour. For this reason, the deer live freely in the park and are not fenced in. Officially, they are still considered wild, even though they are regularly fed by tourists.

Before heading back, I wandered through the alleys and had an experience I will never forget. I bought a typical Japanese mochi rice cake filled with bean paste. Customers can even watch it being made. It's quite an experience, because the dough is beaten with wooden sticks and hands while shouting.

Back in Kyoto, I took the 205 city bus through the geisha district and up the narrow streets to Kiyomizu-dera Temple. The name Kiyomizu-dera refers to several Buddhist temple complexes, but it usually refers to Otowasan Kiyomizu-dera in eastern Kyoto, which is one of the city's most famous attractions. Together with other historical sites, the temple was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List 'Historic Kyoto' in 1994. From up here, you have a magnificent view of Kyoto. And I caught the sunset. Unfortunately, it was pandemonium. On the way back, I stroll through new alleys in the district that I hadn't explored yesterday.

Tired and exhausted, but with a successful haul of photos, I returned to the hotel. I packed my things and got ready for bed, because tomorrow I have to get up early again.

Day 9 Bamboo forest and on to Osaka

My alarm clock rang at four in the morning. I had to take a slightly more complicated route to Kyōto Station, as there are no city buses running at that time of day, hardly any trains are running, and there is no direct line from my hotel. When I finally arrived, I locked my suitcase in a locker, which cost ¥700 (extra-large compartment), and made my way to platform 32. From here, the train travelled northwest of Kyoto to Arashiyama.

When I arrived, I looked for the bamboo forest. However, it was still relatively dark, so when I found the entrance, I couldn't take many photos. A few other photographers were already there. I walked up and down the path and listened to nature. When it got lighter and the sun rose, I was finally able to take a few shots. It's amazing how a bamboo forest looks. I met Kevin from Belgium. We took photos together, him with a Sony and me with my OM system.

We talked about travelling and Japan. He gave me a tip for a good café. I suggested we go there together to warm up. However, the café was still closed as it didn't open until 9:00 a.m. So we went for a walk in the sunshine along the Katsuragawa River. There I spotted various birds and was able to photograph a Japanese grey heron and a Japanese white heron.

After finally enjoying our coffee, I said goodbye to him and drove back to Kyoto. I picked up my luggage and boarded the train to Osaka. The journey cost me just ¥580 and took less than half an hour.

In Osaka, I looked for the metro and travelled to Shinsaibashi Station. Unfortunately, there weren't escalators or lifts everywhere, so I often had to carry my suitcase up or down the stairs. The underground system can be confusing at times, as it spans several floors and has numerous exits. Once I found my exit with the help of a friendly Japanese woman, I used Google Maps to find my way to my hotel. Unfortunately, I couldn't check in yet, as this is only possible from 3 p.m. Fortunately, they accepted my request and let me check in at 2 p.m. I spent the hour and a half in a restaurant and strolled through the streets to get a first impression of the city.

Osaka is known for its flashy, garish and vibrant nightlife. So, at dusk, I left the hotel and headed out onto the streets of the brightly lit city. I kept finding great subjects to photograph.

But my first destination was Namba Yasaka Shrine, a Shinto shrine. However, the gates were already closed. So I'll have to go back again tomorrow.

I set off on foot for Tsūtenkaku, a 103-metre-high broadcasting and observation tower near JR West's Shin-Imamiya Station in the Naniwa district. It is the city's landmark.

All hell had broken loose on the streets there. It was like a fairground. After taking a few photos and soaking up the atmosphere, I quickly left this area and travelled two stops back to the well-known entertainment district of Dotonbori. Here, the crowds were a little more spread out.

Here, too, I let it all sink in and then took my leave, heading for quieter streets that were nonetheless full of life.

Exhausted and tired, I returned to the hotel after my evening tour.

Day 10 Osaka

Today I slept in because I hadn't booked anything and didn't have any special plans.

Feeling relaxed, I took the metro to Namba Yasaka Shrine. It wasn't very busy there, so I was able to look around the shrine at my leisure.

Afterwards, I spontaneously decided to take the train to the largest building in the city to enjoy a beautiful view of Osaka. It is a multi-purpose commercial building in the Abenosuji Itchōme district of Abeno-ku in Osaka. The building complex consists of a new extension, an east wing and the Abeno Harukas skyscraper. With a height of 300 metres and a total of 62 floors, the building was the tallest in Japan from 2014 to 2023, before being surpassed by the Azabudai Hills Mori JP Tower. When I arrived there and took a glass lift up to the observation deck, I was stopped because the entrance fee was 2,000 yen. That was too expensive for me, so I went back down, looked at the building from the outside and walked through Tennoji Park towards Kuromon Market.

In the park, I listened to the birdsong and managed to photograph the brown-eared bulbul. It wasn't perfect, but I had a photo.

I strolled up and down Kuromon Market from bottom to top. Once again, there were fresh Japanese delicacies everywhere, as well as other items such as fans, wooden chopsticks and all sorts of other things. I tried another dessert consisting of dough, ice cream and chocolate sauce.

When I had seen and photographed enough, I took the metro to Osaka Castle. I only looked at it from the outside, as it was very busy again and I also wanted to look for and photograph more birds in Osaka Castle Park. But no luck, either they were too quick to fly away or I couldn't find them in the first place. Apart from a few ducks, there was nothing to photograph.

So I decided to drive back to the hotel to pick up my luggage, which I had stored there. Then I drove to the hotel at the airport. There, check-in was again done via a terminal. An employee came over, helped me and explained that I had been upgraded to a triple room. Not bad, as it meant I could repack for tomorrow's flight in peace.

Route from the main island (Tokyo (Fuji)-Nagano (snow monkeys)-Kanzawa (Shirakawa-go)-Kyoto (Nara)-Osaka)

And I tried my hand at using a Japanese washing machine and dryer. All you have to do is put the laundry in, insert the coins, and off you go. The detergent and temperature are all automatic. I was a little nervous about whether it would work, but the result was satisfactory.

Tomorrow it's goodbye to the main island and hello to Yonaguni.

Day 11: Journey to the southernmost point of Japan

I took the shuttle bus to the airport. It only took fifteen minutes. Check-in was no problem, and although I had slightly more luggage than allowed, the lady turned a blind eye.

I then had a leisurely breakfast before heading to the gate.

The flight to Okinawa took about 2 hours and 40 minutes.

I had a slightly longer stay there. I took advantage of this and started editing my photos and tried a new Japanese snack: a rice cake. But then I received an email from the airline saying that due to poor visibility in Yonaguni, the flight would be diverted and there would be no service due to turbulence. Not exactly the best conditions, but I decided to take it as it came. After all, I had no other choice.

As a precaution, I took a tablet for nausea, just to be on the safe side.

Boarding began on time. We flew over the Sea of Japan in a small plane. There was some turbulence and a bumpy landing, but we arrived safely. It is very windy, almost like a small storm. The airport is tiny and the baggage carousel overlooks the island.

I was picked up from the hotel and check-in was a little complicated because the staff spoke little to no English, and when they did, it was very difficult to understand. But thanks to Google Translate, everything was sorted out. Ayumi, an employee, drove me to two supermarkets so I could get my muesli and fresh fruit for breakfast. On the way, she explained to me that the road around the island is 25 km long and that only 1,700 Japanese people live here, 700 of whom belong to the Japanese military.

Back at the hotel, I was delighted with the room. From the outside, it looked like a small container, but inside it was a beautifully furnished room. I immediately felt at home, and I could see the sea directly from my window.

After I had unpacked everything and prepared my photography equipment for tomorrow, Ayumi picked me up at around 7 p.m. and took me to a hotel restaurant and then back again.

Since there was no party or anything like that here and it was getting quite stormy outside, I decided to sleep my way into the New Year.

Happy New Year

Day 12 – Stormy Seas

Well-rested, I got myself ready for diving. However, I wasn't sure whether it would even take place, because there was a violent storm and it was raining cats and dogs. I checked my equipment, packed everything up, and was picked up on time by Saya, my diving instructor from the dive school "Dive Center Marlin." I asked her whether we were really going to dive today, and she said yes. I was surprised, because at other dive schools the dive would have been canceled in this kind of weather. Not with the Japanese—they're tough.

We picked up another diver. Apart from me, today's team and the entire dive school consisted only of Japanese men and women. Of course, I didn't understand a single word, not even the briefing. Luckily, Saya came over to me and explained it in English—at least she tried. But overall, I understood everything. She also brought me a 7 mm wetsuit, and then we set off for the harbor.

At the harbor, the tanks were already being loaded onto the boat. The rest of the diving equipment was laid out and ready. On the boat, I assembled everything, and when we stopped in front of the island at the dive site "Irizaki," we got ready to dive. But then I realized that the fins didn't fit me. I had already mentioned this before departure, but no one understood me. I didn't want to descend like that—what if I lost my fins in the open sea? So we had to go back to the harbor, and they got me different fins. They still didn't fit perfectly, but they were definitely better than the previous ones.

We returned to the dive site, and then we all jumped into the Sea of Japan. I was amazed at how warm it was—around 24 degrees—and despite the strong swell, visibility was about 30 meters.

For me, it was my first blue-water dive in the open sea, without any orientation from a reef or similar features. But I managed quite well. We descended to depths between 10 and 18 meters, searching for the large schools of hammerhead sharks. They had been spotted repeatedly the day before, but today it was like looking for a needle in a haystack—or rather, a needle in the blue ocean. We simply couldn't find them, and although we all still had 100 bar left, we surfaced again after 32 minutes, of course with a safety stop. On board, Saya explained that they had probably dived deeper because of the weather, which is why we didn't see them.

Back at the harbor, we drove to the dive school, warmed up, and waited until we were allowed to dive again, because a certain surface interval must be observed between dives.

Our second attempt to catch sight of the gigantic animals also failed, even though this time we dived deeper and for longer.

After returning, we took showers and had lunch together at the dive center's own restaurant. Afterwards, Riku—another dive instructor with whom I had already exchanged photos and talked about diving via Instagram—drove me back and also gave me a photography tip for the surrounding area. I grabbed my camera and headed out, despite the wind and rain. After about 22 minutes, I climbed up to the viewpoint "Tinda Bana." From there, I could look out over the town of "Sonai" and the sea.

Back at the harbor, it then really started to pour, so I went back to my small container and spent a cozy evening watching a movie.

By the way, Yonaguni is only 111 kilometers from the coast of Taiwan. The nearest Japanese island is 127 kilometers away. It is the westernmost island of Japan, not—as written the day before—the southernmost point. Tokyo is almost 1,900 kilometers away.

Day 13 - 140 Dives - Hammerhead Sharks

Today, I was picked up on time again for the dive. Unfortunately, the weather hadn't improved; it had actually become stormier. Still, we got ready to dive. Riku, my dive instructor for the day, did the briefing for me and three Americans using Google Translate. The other four Japanese divers had it easier.
We then drove back to the harbor, transferred to the boat, assembled the equipment, and headed out into the stormy sea. Luckily, the dive site "Irizaki" is only 5 minutes away from the harbor.

We jumped into the water and descended. According to Riku, the visibility today was about 30 meters. Riku dove ahead of us, and within five minutes, he had already spotted a school of hammerhead sharks from a distance. We followed him as quickly as we could, down to a depth of 37 meters, and then we finally saw them: a large school of hammerhead sharks. It was too dark for photos, and everything was happening too fast. I wasn't allowed to use my flash, as that would make them dive deeper. However, a video could be taken, and after just 20 minutes, we surfaced because we were running out of air. No surprise, given the depth and effort. But it was worth it. My goal of seeing the hammerhead sharks had been achieved. Now, I just need that perfect photo. Since the first dive was so deep, we had a two-hour break. We used that time to have lunch.

Screenshot from the Video

After getting some strength back, we set off for the second dive. But this time, we weren't lucky, maybe because of the weather, which kept getting worse, and after 40 minutes, we surfaced without having spotted any hammerhead sharks.
I had originally planned to go for a third dive, but I decided against it. When climbing back onto the boat, I struggled so much with the current that I hurt my arm, and I decided to rest and save myself for tomorrow.
Riku brought me back, and I enjoyed a quiet afternoon in my room before taking a stroll through the streets of the small village.
Let's see if I get lucky again tomorrow and encounter the hammerheads. Keep your fingers crossed for me!

Day 14: Over 200 Hammerhead Sharks

Today I was able to dive once again and—just like on the previous days—I was picked up punctually by the dive school. At the dive center, I met my new group, which consisted of three Americans, three French divers, Riku, and me. Unfortunately, we didn't get to dive until around 10 a.m., as there were four groups but only two boats, so two groups started at 8:30 a.m. and the other two at 10 a.m.

The first groups returned and reported on their sightings. We hoped to be just as lucky. But at first it didn't look like it. Nothing but deep blue. Then, after 20 minutes, the first hammerhead appeared, repeatedly coming toward us and then disappearing again. And when we were all down to only about 70 bar, we saw a school of more than 200 hammerhead sharks at a depth of around 20 meters. It was unbelievably magical. Above, below, to the right, to the left—no matter where you looked, there were these gigantic sharks. Unfortunately, I didn't manage to take a good photo. First, because I was a bit scared to swim closer, and second, because I had to keep an eye on my air supply and therefore couldn't set the focus properly. I still need a lot more practice. It is definitely an experience I won't forget anytime soon. Even though everything looks slow underwater, the sharks are actually quite fast, and the current is strong. But we were able to take videos again. With only 30 bar left, we finally surfaced and headed back to the harbor and then to our accommodation.

Unfortunately, the second dive was not successful. Apart from a few fish, we didn't see anything. Riku said that a bull shark had been sighted at a depth of around 70 meters and that the hammerhead sharks were circling there.

So we were hoping for the third dive. But this time as well, unfortunately, I had bad luck.

Now, my hope is that tomorrow morning, with two spontaneously booked dives, it will finally work out. After checking with them, I'm allowed to dive in the first group. That way, you have a better chance, and the weather is supposed to be good tomorrow.

Since I was a bit worn out after three dives, I spent the evening in my room, set up the camera gear for tomorrow and for the afternoon trip on the island, and went to bed early.

Day 15 – Last Diving Day and Yonaguni

I experienced the sunrise right in front of my hotel, on the beach across the road. Afterwards, Riku picked me up earlier than usual today, as I was able to dive with the first group.

With the sun, we left the harbor and once again headed out along the coast of Yonaguni. The captain had screens on his boat showing sonar images, which made it possible to locate the hammerhead sharks quite precisely. However, it's not that simple, as they are constantly moving and often diving deeper before we even get into the water.

Still, luck was on our side one more time—though again only toward the end of the dive. Riku searched for them and found them at a depth of nearly 30 meters. We descended with full power, and Riku came up behind me, pushing me forward so I could move faster, and stayed with me so that I could get closer to the hammerhead sharks. Two of the photos turned out well.

We spent the break at the dive center before heading out to dive again. It was to be my last dive in Japanese waters, once more filled with hope of spotting the hammerhead sharks.

But for a long time, nothing could be seen on the sonar images. Then we located a large group of hammerhead sharks, unfortunately at a depth of 60 meters. We watched them on the sonar screens, and as they moved higher, we got ready and descended. At first, however, it looked like it would just be a blue-water dive. Just as we were about to head toward the safety stop, Riku finally spotted a few—though they were at 30 meters already and in the process of descending again. I could only make out a shadow; a few fellow divers managed to capture them on video.

After four days of diving, a total of nine dives, and four sightings, I was still satisfied. Even if I may not have the perfect photo, no one can take the experience and the memories away from me! I also learned that there are amazing dive sites on the other islands as well. Maybe Japan will indeed be a travel destination for me again.

I thanked the entire team, picked up my car—which I had rented for the last day—and explored the island. Driving around it took about an hour; with a few stops, perhaps a bit longer. The island is very green and has only three small towns. But street photography or photographing people is rather difficult here. And the centenarians I was looking for live on Okinawa, the main island of the archipelago.

Even though traffic drives on the left here, it was easy, as there wasn't much going on on the roads. The only potential danger came from the free-roaming Yonaguni ponies. The Yonaguni pony is an endangered Japanese small horse breed. However, they were neither interested in cars nor in people. Seeing such content, free-roaming horses was wonderful.

I watched the sunset from the westernmost point of Japan.

Tomorrow it will be time to say goodbye, as I head back to Osaka.

Day 15: Farewell Yonaguni and complete chaos at Okinawa Airport

At sunrise, I drove to the easternmost point of the island. There was a small lighthouse and a few Yonaguni ponies, but no other people. Wonderful, just nature and me! I was able to enjoy the sunrise in peace, take a few photos and then drive to the fishing village at the harbour.

But even today, I had no luck with the fishermen or other locals. Too bad. So I drove over to the other side again and visited the other ponies.

Afterwards, I returned the car, checked out and waited at the airport to board my flight. Here I met Mao, a Japanese woman who makes incredible underwater videos. As luck would have it, we sat next to each other on the plane and she shared an amazing hammerhead shark video with me.

She also told me that humpback whales, manta rays and whale sharks can be found here off the Japanese coast depending on the season and that they are easy to spot. So maybe I'll have to go back to Japan or combine it with another trip to explore the other islands with their diving spots and visit the centenarians.

In Okinawa, I spent the waiting time in a café before heading to my gate an hour before departure.But then my flight was no longer listed on the departure board. I asked about it, and they tried to explain to me that it was delayed by an hour and a half. I asked for compensation and received a meal voucher worth 1,000 yen, which I redeemed at a restaurant. But then my flight was no longer listed on the departure board. I asked about it, and they tried to explain to me that it was delayed by an hour and a half. I asked for compensation and received a meal voucher worth 1,000 yen, which I redeemed at a restaurant.

Back at the gate, another delay was shown on the board, so by then the delay had already added up to several hours. At the service center, they did not want to grant me any further compensation. But I didn't give up and explained—using Google Translate, since no one at the airport spoke English—that I at least wanted the taxi from the airport in Osaka to the hotel to be covered, as I had to catch my international flight the next morning. The staff refused until the manager came, who, without any discussion, paid me 5,500 yen in cash and informed the hotel that I would be arriving late. On the departure boards I could see that several flights were delayed, but hardly anyone complained. A few Japanese passengers accepted the meal voucher and were satisfied with that. At 8:00 p.m., instead of the scheduled 5:45 p.m., boarding was finally supposed to begin—but nothing happened. Another delay was announced. I slowly became uneasy, wondering whether the flight would even take place, and asked about the reason for the delay. They tried to explain via Google Translate that aircraft maintenance was taking so long. People's safety came first, which I of course agree with. Still, it would have been nice to keep the waiting passengers informed. No one knew when—or if—the flight to Osaka would depart that day. I went back to the counter, where they explained to me that Japan Airlines only covers hotel and flight costs if a flight is canceled. Then, at 9:00 p.m., boarding actually began—after more than three hours of delay. I asked the manager once again about compensation, since the delay had now exceeded three hours, and without complaining she handed me another 5,500 yen in cash. Persistence, patience, and asking questions really do pay off after all. We finally took off with a delay of three and a half hours. In Osaka, my suitcase luckily appeared on the baggage carousel relatively quickly, and I managed to catch the last shuttle bus to the hotel without any stress. That allowed me to save the cost of a taxi. At the hotel—where I had stayed for one night a week earlier—the check-in worked perfectly, and shortly after midnight I fell into bed, exhausted and tired.

Tomorrow morning it's "Goodbye Japan" and "Hello Munich."

Departure

After a short night, I took the shuttle bus back to the airport.

I checked in, exchanged my remaining Japanese yen, and spent the time until boarding in the lounge. Here, there was also something decent for Europeans to eat for breakfast.

The plane took off half an hour late. I enjoyed the flight in business class, which I was able to afford thanks to my frequent flyer miles, and arrived in Munich feeling relaxed.